Coming Home to the Goddess of the Sea
Written by Geoff Dalglish
Geoff on his way to the Findhorn Foundation's retreat house ‘Traigh Bhan’ on Iona
“For me there is no place I’d prefer to rewild the soul and sense into next steps.”
Life is a pilgrimage - and where better to renew pilgrim vows and set fresh intentions than on the sacred Isle of Iona? For many centuries this Hebridean island has attracted travellers in search of healing, renewal and a deeper connection with the divine. Countless thousands followed in the footsteps of Irish monk and missionary Saint Columba, who arrived in 563 CE, bringing Christianity to Scotland. Iona has been called by different names, including the Isle of the Holy Spirit, although by some accounts its earliest name was Ioua, ‘Goddess of the Sea’ and an important figure in the Celtic pantheon of gods and goddesses.
Geoff walking a labyrinth at Columba Bay where Saint Columba landed nearly 1,500 years ago
The sacred Isle of Iona
It is a place steeped in history, bathed in blood, and according to some legends it is the final resting place for 48 Scottish kings including Duncan and Macbeth of Shakespearean fame. “If I be destined to die in Iona, it were a merciful leave taking,” an abbot declared in the 600s. “I know not under the blue sky a better little spot for death.” More recently Ian Reid, a former warden of Iona Abbey observed, “The spiritual call of Iona is not escape from the world; it is in response to the call of being in the world.” Here sheep outnumber humans, at least during the winter months. Iona is home to some 175 permanent residents who live simply, many being sustained by thousands of pilgrims from around the world. It is a place that continues to inspire writers, poets, philosophers, musicians and artists. And like pilgrims of old they all arrive by water.
The Findhorn Foundation's retreat house Traigh Bhan by the beautiful white sandy beaches at the north end of Iona
The retreat house ‘Traigh Bhan’
Often, I’ve enjoyed the loving embrace of the Findhorn Foundation’s beautiful ‘Traigh Bhan’ retreat house overlooking the stunning white beaches at the northerly tip of the island. But most recently I was privileged to serve as the summer custodian, also hosting several spiritual retreats. This was precious time. Time to engage with fellow seekers, to journal, take deep breaths, and envision a more loving and sustainable world. Time to simply be. For me there is no place I’d prefer to rewild the soul and sense into next steps. The house is cosy, welcoming, and a perfect base for an exploration of inner and outer landscapes.
Traigh Bhan’s sun room with beautiful views of the lush garden, the sea and the Isle of Mull
Built originally a century ago, it was bought by spiritual seeker Jessica Ferreira who recognised Iona as a powerpoint upon the Earth and a place to anchor the ‘energies of the new’ and radiate them out into the world in meditation. In the early 1970s she felt it was time to pass the baton and gifted Traigh Bhan to young newlyweds Katherine and Roger Collis, who in turn entrusted it into the custodianship of the Findhorn Foundation. The understanding was that it would be a pivotal part of a spiritual Network of Light, connecting Findhorn, Glastonbury, and other Centres of Light. Today it continues to be a focus of awakenings and often profound insights.
Katherine Collis on the northern beach of Iona close to Traigh Bhan
Belonging - the feeling of coming home
Katherine Collis tells the story of walking along the single lane road that runs from the village to the north of the island and coming across a woman standing alone and gazing out over the fields and across the sea. As she came closer, she could see she was openly crying. “Do you live here?” she asked through her tears. “Can you tell me what the heck is happening to me? The moment I stepped off the ferry and set foot on this island something came over me and I began to sob. I had to leave the group to try to get a grip and that was hours ago. I still can’t stop crying. I’ve never felt this way before. ”What is it exactly you feel?”, Katherine asked. “Well, the feeling is as if I’ve come home. Don’t get me wrong, these are not tears of sadness, these are tears of joy. All I know is that I’ve never felt so moved nor such a feeling of welcome. It’s like I’ve come back to where I belong.”
This feeling of coming home is common among those who visit, as they respond to a deep yearning and recognise an openhearted and sacred place of spiritual alignment. Katherine explains: “Coming home is one way we stumble into the domain of spirit and enter the house of our souls.”
Traigh Bhan’s Sanctuary offers a sacred space for stillness and meditation
Sacred pilgrimage and spiritual practice on Iona
It was here on 7 July 2011 that I started an epic personal journey, vowing to walk the equivalent of the circumference of the world with climate change messages about treading more lightly and lovingly upon the Earth. Some five years and 25,000km later, I’d stopped counting the steps, although I recognised each one as a prayer and a blessing, each step taking me further along a path of inner exploration. To exactly where I need to be now. Highlights of my latest immersion included many illuminating meditations in Traigh Bhan’s sanctuary. Here I’m aware of the flickering of the candle, the whisper of the breeze, waves gently breaking on the nearby shore and the evocative sounds of seabirds.
Geoff’s daughters Bonnie and Tammy at the ruins of the Nunnery at the start of their father's pilgrimage in 2011
I’m also drawn to spending quiet time among the stone ruins of the Nunnery that was founded around 1,200CE and flourished for more than 350 years. This was the realm of Iona’s religious women and a community of nuns who worshipped in a strict round of services and private prayer. Many were from noble families and the convent provided refuge for unmarried daughters, widows, illegitimate girls and estranged wives. For me it is also a symbol of the Patriarchy, the ruins contrasting with the imposing structure of the Abbey which has been continuously renovated.
A personal practice that I often share with retreat guests is to inwardly or outwardly sound the names of women who have been great sources of inspiration, so that the ancient stones reverberate with an honouring of the Divine Feminine. My list is long. It includes Mother Earth, my sister, my ex-wife, my daughters, two little granddaughters, Findhorn Foundation and Community co-founders Eileen Caddy and Dorothy Maclean and many precious friends.
A Celtic cross along the way between Iona Abbey and Traigh Bhan towards the quiet north end of the island
Time on Iona also enables me to dive deeper into my understanding of Celtic spirituality, which is far removed from the fear-based and patriarchal Christian upbringing of my childhood. How beautiful are the Celtic messages that far from being born in sin, we are all Divine beings and part of an interconnected and interdependent world of Oneness, which celebrates all lifeforms and honours the sacred feminine and masculine equally. This has that resonance of truth. My prayer is always to return to the island and Traigh Bhan heartspace.
Approaching Iona from the sea
If you would like to experience a retreat at Traigh Bhan on Iona please find more information about our ‘Spirit of Iona’ weeks here:
